top of page

Expedition Timeline

pwfong

Updated: May 3, 2023

The expedition launched in mid-August 2018 from Mongolia’s Ulaan Taiga Special Protected Area. Under the guidance of Tumursukh Jal, director of the protected area, the team ascended Mount Belchir (elevation 10,994 feet). The flanks of this mountain provide the headwaters for several rivers, including the Delgermörön, one of the Selenge’s two largest tributaries.

After documenting the river’s source, we began a descent of the Delgermörön by kayak, then transferred to rowboats near the southern boundary of the protected area. The expedition reached the city of Mörön in early September, then continued on to the Delger’s junction with the Ider, a confluence that forms the Selenge proper.

The team reached Sukhbaatar and the confluence with the Orkhon near the end of the month, crossed the Russian border at Kyakhta, then returned to the Selenga and continued downstream to Ulan Ude and the Baikal Delta. The river portion of the journey ended on October 6 at the village of Istomino, during the second snowstorm of the trip. (You can read Peter’s description of that event here.)

While in Russia, the team met with Andrei Bazov and Natalia Bazova, two of the world’s leading experts on the threatened Baikal omul (Coregonus migratorius), an endemic species of whitefish that spawns in the Selenga. Several days later, the team climbed to the summit of the highest peak on Baikal’s Svyatoy Nos peninsula (6,158 feet).

A map of the entire route (minus some of the highway travel) is available here.

from March 22, 2019

 
 
 

Comments


“What a fine book! There are few more beautiful places on earth than Lake Baikal  and its vast surroundings; this account of a noble adventure will leave you with deep  impressions of the place and its people, its past and its possible futures. Surely a fifth of the earth's fresh water deserves your attention!”

Bill McKibben, author of The End of Nature and founder of  Third Act

Rowing to Baikal is an instant classic in the disturbing genre created by people in love with massive ecosystems in the process of being destroyed. Peter Fong’s portrait of the rivers that carry a fifth of Earth’s freshwater to Lake Baikal is both panoramic and intensely personal, stretching from the political nightmares that threaten Baikal to love for the tiny pikas (‘Little Kings,’ Peter calls them) that still perch on boulders in the headwaters surveying the beauty and heartache far below. Eighty percent of the world’s rivers are now dammed at stupendous cost to ecological and cultural health. That more dams within a year may decimate this planetary treasure stands in maddening contrast to Peter's courageous account of his voyage. I love this book, and pray health to its waters.”

David James Duncan, author of The Brothers K and Sun House

Rowing to Baikal is an engrossing tale told by the intrepid Peter Fong, whose vivid prose carries readers to the farthest ends of the earth, and expands our sense of discovery, responsibility, and interconnectedness—our ken, as it were—as all good stories should.”

Chris Dombrowski, author of The River You Touch

“In Rowing to Baikal, Peter Fong has written a graceful and illuminating account of the Baikal Headwaters Expedition. Fong leads a captivating cast of characters in a search for solutions to the entangled dilemmas of river conservation and energy independence for Mongolia, weaving together ecological observations and a passionate voice for the river’s future.”

Nancy Langston, author of Climate Ghosts and Sustaining Lake Superior

Rowing to Baikal is a magical story of a scientific expedition through the Selenge River watershed. Peter Fong has picked up the pen from the likes of Peter Matthiessen and Carl Safina. This treasure is a travel narrative, conservation account, and an environmental justice treatise all wrapped into a perfectly paced adventure with kayaks, shamans, vodka, and always, swimming just ahead, the elusive Baikal omul and the Mongolian taimen: two rare fish with climate change and geopolitics nipping at their tails.”

Richard J. King, author of Ahab’s Rolling Sea and The Devil’s Cormorant

 

“Both a rollicking yarn and a moving portrait of a complex, remote place, Rowing to Baikal goes up mountains and down the Selenge River to show us the politics, significance, and beauty of the Mongolian-Russian borderlands. Full of camels, rare fish, and unforgettable people, Fong makes you care for this river and the cultures it nurtures.”

Bathsheba Demuth, author of Floating Coast

Order your copy now!

Fifty percent of the royalties from your purchase will be donated to

the Wild Salmon Center's International Taimen Initiative.

bottom of page