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Spring 2019 Update

pwfong

Updated: May 4, 2023

The goals of our expedition were three-fold: to gather baseline data on aquatic fauna, including invertebrates and fish; to contribute to research begun by other scientists in the watershed; and to raise awareness of the river’s intrinsic value at both the local and global levels. The team achieved substantial success on all three objectives.

Our scientific projects included the continuation of an ongoing DNA study of two ancient members of the salmon family—taimen (Hucho taimen) and lenok (Brachymystax lenok)—led by Lanie Galland of the University of Nevada–Reno. We also collected DNA samples (fin clips) from grayling, loach, dace, minnows and other species of fish—several hundred samples in all. These were sent to Reno for analysis, along with water samples for the study of carbon transport by rivers (collected at the request of Sudeep Chandra, director of the university’s Global Water Center).

Using a rapid assessment protocol, we surveyed macroinvertebrates at 11 different sites, typically above and below major tributaries. These samples were delivered to Suvdaa Chuluunbat at the Mongolian National University of Education. (We donated our nets, traps, sorting trays, and sampling bottles to this university as well.) Her team will identify the specimens by genus and publish their findings. Each sample vial contained many different species of mayflies, stoneflies, caddis flies, dragonflies, and other insects. The first sample was collected in the upper headwaters, the last just below the confluence of the Selenge with the Orkhon, nearly 1000 kilometers downstream.

Contributing to a project begun by Olaf Jensen of Rutgers University in 2016, we logged all sightings of anglers and wild mammals along a 1500-km transect, from the headwaters of the Delgermörön to the Baikal Delta. Wild mammals observed included lynx, fox, and roe deer.

Interviews of principal stakeholders along the Selenge watershed, including government officials, environmental activists, and others, were conducted by the Center for Natural Resources and Environmental Policy. Matt McKinney, the center’s director, circulated a draft report of its assessment of the potential for transboundary cooperation in January.

The team also surveyed attitudes of residents of riverbank communities regarding ecological awareness, conservation, and tourism, among other topics. The results of this survey (nearly 300 people were questioned in Mongolia) are being tabulated now by the Taimen Fund.

Stories describing the expedition and its implications for taimen conservation have already appeared on the websites of The Drake magazine and Fly Fishing Russia and are forthcoming in Fly Fisherman magazine. Lanie’s chronicle of the journey has been serialized on the Instagram feed of the University of Nevada–Reno College of Science (@unrscience).

The team continues to gather notes, photographs, and video for the preparation of additional magazine essays, a nonfiction book, and a short film.


from March 22, 2019

 
 
 

Comments


“What a fine book! There are few more beautiful places on earth than Lake Baikal  and its vast surroundings; this account of a noble adventure will leave you with deep  impressions of the place and its people, its past and its possible futures. Surely a fifth of the earth's fresh water deserves your attention!”

Bill McKibben, author of The End of Nature and founder of  Third Act

Rowing to Baikal is an instant classic in the disturbing genre created by people in love with massive ecosystems in the process of being destroyed. Peter Fong’s portrait of the rivers that carry a fifth of Earth’s freshwater to Lake Baikal is both panoramic and intensely personal, stretching from the political nightmares that threaten Baikal to love for the tiny pikas (‘Little Kings,’ Peter calls them) that still perch on boulders in the headwaters surveying the beauty and heartache far below. Eighty percent of the world’s rivers are now dammed at stupendous cost to ecological and cultural health. That more dams within a year may decimate this planetary treasure stands in maddening contrast to Peter's courageous account of his voyage. I love this book, and pray health to its waters.”

David James Duncan, author of The Brothers K and Sun House

Rowing to Baikal is an engrossing tale told by the intrepid Peter Fong, whose vivid prose carries readers to the farthest ends of the earth, and expands our sense of discovery, responsibility, and interconnectedness—our ken, as it were—as all good stories should.”

Chris Dombrowski, author of The River You Touch

“In Rowing to Baikal, Peter Fong has written a graceful and illuminating account of the Baikal Headwaters Expedition. Fong leads a captivating cast of characters in a search for solutions to the entangled dilemmas of river conservation and energy independence for Mongolia, weaving together ecological observations and a passionate voice for the river’s future.”

Nancy Langston, author of Climate Ghosts and Sustaining Lake Superior

Rowing to Baikal is a magical story of a scientific expedition through the Selenge River watershed. Peter Fong has picked up the pen from the likes of Peter Matthiessen and Carl Safina. This treasure is a travel narrative, conservation account, and an environmental justice treatise all wrapped into a perfectly paced adventure with kayaks, shamans, vodka, and always, swimming just ahead, the elusive Baikal omul and the Mongolian taimen: two rare fish with climate change and geopolitics nipping at their tails.”

Richard J. King, author of Ahab’s Rolling Sea and The Devil’s Cormorant

 

“Both a rollicking yarn and a moving portrait of a complex, remote place, Rowing to Baikal goes up mountains and down the Selenge River to show us the politics, significance, and beauty of the Mongolian-Russian borderlands. Full of camels, rare fish, and unforgettable people, Fong makes you care for this river and the cultures it nurtures.”

Bathsheba Demuth, author of Floating Coast

Order your copy now!

Fifty percent of the royalties from your purchase will be donated to

the Wild Salmon Center's International Taimen Initiative.

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